Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Mid Autumn Moon Festival

Mooncakes being served by our kind hostess

A month ago, on the even of a full moon, I was in Dali, China (Yunnan).  It was such a fun time and honor to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival ("Moon Festival") with a local family.  It's tradition during this festival to visit family, and we began in the brother's home of our host.  This woman (I've named "Grandmother") served us this AMAZING mooncake, made in the bamboo basket and filled with walnuts and chestnuts.  I ate my share and then some!

We tasted longan fruit.  The longan is a relative of lychee.  Sweet and juicy!  Good Lapsang Soochong teas are said to have a hint of the flavor of a dried longan. 
Longan fruit, called "Dragon's Eye"

Chinese Pomegranate

We also enjoyed fresh pomegranates, which are not like the ones sold in the states.  The skin is soft yellow and pink, and the flesh of the fruit is light with a pink tint.  We saw these growing along the roadside, each fruit on the tree covered in a protective plastic bag.  Such time intensive work!

We strolled through the traditional village and down to the river, then to our host's home for the evening.  (Our final stop was one of the homes across the way.)

Roof-top view of the village

Our delicious meal

Our host was the chef from the Linden Centre.  I'll write more about the Centre in another post, but I highly recommend it!  We ate al fresco in the center courtyard.  We had an array of delicious foods, including melon shoots (on the far right).  They were served like sauteed pea shoots.

When the evening was done, I had sampled four types of mooncake:  1 - The walnut-chestnut (my favorite!)  2 - A pastry-like crust with a sweet pork filling (the pastry in photo above)  3 - Packaged version with a meat filling (it came home for the DH) and 4 - Sesame with dried fruit, also very delicious.

There she is!  This photo taken by one of my taller tour mates.  :-)

The moment we first saw the moon peeking over the rooftop was special. Everyone's conversation stopped and collective enthusiasm welcomed her to the night sky.

Sunday, October 09, 2011

Wu-Wo at Chinese Garden

Yesterday I had the joyful opportunity to be in a demonstration of a Wu-Wo tea ceremony at the Chinese Classical Garden in Portland.  I've been part of a group that practices Wu-Wo for a little over a year.  I've waited to blog about it because I wanted to do a good job.  As a novice I didn't feel ready, and I still have so much to learn, yet my desire to share this beautiful experience with you outweighs my hesitance.  After all, Wu-Wo was designed to be a tea ceremony for us all. 

Thanks to my friend Mitra for taking the photos.

The Portland Chinese Classical Garden, our splendid setting for Wu-Wo

Here is the introduction from the program materials:  "Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony is based on traditional Chinese Gong-Fu small pot brewing dating back to the Ming dynasty more than 300 years ago. Traditional practice was modified in Taiwan in 1989 to create a ceremony that allows many participants to brew and serve tea together. Wu-Wo translates as 'selfless' or 'void of self.' There is no ranking of participants by level of knowledge, nationality, religion or social status and there is no expectation of reward. This ceremony helps participants develop a tolerant attitude and cultivate cooperation and thoughtfulness toward others while sharing a cup of heartwarming tea."

I distill the experience to that of enjoying tea in community, in nature, while quieting my mind and focusing on the moment.   Please note that my description of the ceremony is based entirely on my experience, and is not meant to be presented as instructional.  Cultural, regional, and personal variances play a role, and I am new to this.  I learn something new each time I join the group to brew, serve and drink tea.

My Wu-Wo mat and equipment
The larger white tea cup was used for the demonstration, to show the color of the tea liquor

The basic equipment includes a brewing vessel, a serving vessel, four cups, a thermos of hot water and a tray for serving.  Since Wu-Wo is typically done outside, you also need a blanket or mat to sit on (or a small stool).  A timing device is helpful, and coasters keep the tea cups brought to you well-balanced in the grass.  My entire kit above packs into my backpack.  That's one of the best parts - you can take this on a hike!  One can use humble tea brewing vessels.  Any tea is welcome, and this spirit of diversity and appreciation is central to the ceremony.   

Pouring the first steep into our serving pots

The general flow of a Wu-Wo event is to arrive and set up your mat/brewing space.  We use a unifying process of unpacking that keeps the experience orderly and tidy.  After everyone is settled, we have time to socialize and admire each person's arrangement and equipment.

Next, we enter a period of silence and brew the first round of tea.  Here is where careful observation of your own tea and of your community is important.  We move as a group to serve one another, though we are not speaking.  Typically, we sit in a circle and serve tea to three people on our left and ourselves. 

Serving the tea
Dewey explains Wu-Wo to the guests

We often brew, serve and drink three rounds of tea. When I drink the tea from others, I try to focus on the tea:  its aroma, flavor, temperature, aftertaste, etc.  I try to notice the subtle changes between each steeping.  I also offer a silent thanks to each person who has brewed, to the tea plant, and to all that has gone into making the tea.  For me, this becomes a meditative component, and I love it.  Sometimes my chattery mind wanders off to other matters entirely, but I try to guide it back to the tea.  

We drink the tea

Reading a poem

At the end of the ceremony, someone may offer a poem or reading to bring the event to a close.  Since we are outdoors, the birds and breeze often join us in this moment of appreciation.

Range of oolong teas brewed at this Wu-Wo event

Many people in our group love oolong tea, and so we often find ourselves drinking a splendid range from light to dark.  Remember, though, that any tea is welcome and honored. 

If you ever have an opportunity to participate in a Wu-Wo gathering or demonstration, I hope you will.  More information:

Friday, October 07, 2011

Green Tea Dress/Scarf

My "Green Tea" Minidress and Scarf

This is my "green tea" outfit!  Brought to me by my fashion-forward friends!  This outfit has a story...

Part One:  While in India at the Glenburn Tea Estate, my room friend MJ comes to the room with this AMAZING scarf!  It's a silk/cotton blend, it hangs so lovely, it's got a great hand feel, it's got the tea leaf/flower on it, it's perfect! 

Camellia Sinensis leaf and flower

I didn't buy one.  Why? I don't know.  Sometimes I get that way.  I was admiring MJ's scarf for the next few days, wishing I had indulged.  You can imagine my delight when, a few days later, MJ handed me this scarf she had tucked away as a gift.  SO thoughtful!

Part Two:  I arrive home from China/India, weary and bleary.  On the table to welcome me is a package from CO Tea Lover.  Inside is this fantastic silk mini-dress.  My friend found it in the Halloween section at a local thrift store!  It's handmade, silk, lined with a lovely contrast fabric, and fits great!  Of course, the best part is that it's a perfect match for the scarf.  My green tea outfit, meant to be.  Thank you to MJ and CO Tea Lover!

Thursday, October 06, 2011

News and Tea Events

A few exciting things to share...

Some news
New tea book:  My friend and fellow blogger Angela has a new book coming out!  Read about it here.  It's called "Dainty Dining: Vintage recipes, memories and memorabilia from America's department store tea rooms." Can't wait to read it!

My first review:  From the Tea Reader, a review of my contribution.

Upcoming Events
Song of Tea, Art Institute of Portland
In Portland tonight...the opening for the Art Institute of Portland's Song of Tea.  I can't make it tonight, but hope to see the exhibit before the end of the month.  Sounds great!

October 6 – October 30, 2011
1st Thursday Reception;  October 6, 2011 6 – 8pm
The Steven Goldman Gallery
1122 NW Davis St – Portland, OR

From the organizers:  "The Steven Goldman Gallery at The Art Institute of Portland and The International Culinary School presents Song of Tea.

Everyday more than 3 billion cups of tea are prepared across the planet making tea the world’s single most widely consumed beverage (unadorned water aside). Song of Tea is a look at six of the most influential tea producing and consuming countries, and an examination of the cultural influence and history of tea in China, Japan, India, England, Morocco and South America through writings, objects and ceremony.

Please join us at the Opening Reception for a sampling of fine teas prepared by Steven Smith Teamaker, Tao of Tea and Marrakesh Restaurant, and a Gongfu tea ceremony also courtesy of Tao of Tea. To pair with the various brews the International Culinary School will be serving a selection of special tea snacks from around the globe.

On October 15th we invite you to join us again in the gallery at 1pm as Jan Waldmann performs a formal Japanese tea ceremony and leads us in a discussion in the Japanese way of tea."

Wu-Wo Demonstration at Chinese Garden
This Saturday, I'm honored to be part of a group demonstrating the Wu-Wo tea ceremony.  Come see us (and right now, it looks to be dry!). 

Saturday October 8th, 2011, 1 pm, Portland Chinese Garden (requires admission to Garden)

"Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony is based on traditional Chinese Gong-Fu small pot brewing dating back to the Ming Dynasty more than 300 years ago. This traditional practice was modified in Taiwan in 1989 to create a ceremony that allows many participants to brew and serve tea together. Wu-Wo translates as “selfless” or “void of self”. There is no ranking of participants by level of knowledge, nationality, religion, or social status and there is no expectation of reward. This ceremony helps participants develop a tolerant attitude and cultivate cooperation and thoughtfulness toward others while sharing a cup of heartwarming tea. Observers will have the opportunity to taste the teas and ask questions."

This event is part of the Garden and Tao of Tea's month-long celebration of tea.  See all events here.


Wednesday, October 05, 2011

James Norwood Pratt: A Call to Action

Steph and James Norwood Pratt
Norwood has a new book - the Ultimate Tea Lover's Treasury.  We both have stories in the Tea Reader.

I had the chance to hear James Norwood Pratt speak twice in the past week, and I am the better for it.  I heard him first at the Northwest Tea Fest in Seattle.  Yesterday, he spoke at the Chinese Garden in Portland as part of the Tao of Tea's month-long Essence of Tea celebration. 

Listening to Norwood speak was delicious.  He regaled us with stories of tea's history, transitioning smoothly to the present by calling us to become tea ambassadors.  "Each one of us needs to reach one of them [non-tea drinkers]."  I agree with Norwood and found myself inspired!  Tea offers so many cures for today's social ills of being over-sugared and over-busy. I find myself contemplating how I can further share this message with my community and be of service. 

Veerinder Chawla, founder of the Tao of Tea, introduces Norwood

Norwood signed his book, "To my colleague Stephanie."  It's a small thing, but hugely meaningful to me because of this man's large influence in the American tea industry.  To be called a colleague is gracious, inviting, inclusive.  It motivates me to do my part.   
James Norwood Pratt inviting us to become tea ambassadors


Monday, October 03, 2011

Beijing Market in the Morning



Now back to Beijing....Here's a morning market.  I'll let the photos speak for themselves, with this one story.  We learned that there are "two prices" for market shopping.  In the morning, the older folks buy.  The prices are better; they have time to haggle.  In the afternoon, the folks coming home from work are tired and hungry.  They're in a hurry, and they pay a higher price. 








Sunday, October 02, 2011

Exciting News: Tea Reader

Two authors:  Virginia "Cinnabar" Wright and me, holding the newly-released book

This just in from the NW Tea Fest!  The book A Tea Reader:  Living Life One Cup at a Time is out!  The official release date is Oct 10, so I just about jumped to the roof when I saw a copy at the Phoenix Tea booth here at the NW Tea Fest!  I am so honored to have a story in this collection.  The compiler and editor is Katrina Avila Munichiello, and my heartfelt thanks to her for seeing this project through.


I cannot overlook the irony of the story I submitted.  It was about leaving my beloved friends in New Mexico in 2004, and my struggles to find deep connections with other women in my new home town.  And here I am, living that again today.  And as before, it is tea and writing that have brought me to deep connections with amazing women in my new hometown.
o

If you are interested in the book, please purchase it at your local independent tea shop or book store. You'll also find it online at Amazon, Barnes & Nobles, etc.

Saturday, October 01, 2011

Room Friend



MJ and Steph at Lake Namtso, Tibet

In Chinese, the phrase for room mate means "room friend" and that phrase was perfect for mine. Let me introduce MJ, my room friend!

She and I met on another tea tour, the one to London in 2007. When this opportunity became a reality for me, her name drifted into my head as the person that I should invite. MJ is a tea business woman and in addition to her enthusiasm for tea, she has a deep passion for life.

I sent off an e-mail, quite out of the blue, to ask if she'd be interested in this journey. I was excpecting a polite, "That's cool - thanks for thinking of me - but I can't" e-mail. Imagine my delight when she started her note back to me with "Hello, room mate"... In fact, she had independently found the information about the tea tour shortly prior to my inquiry. It was meant to be!

MJ proved herself an extremely resourceful and creative room friend. We began calling her Rose MacGyver for her many inventions along the journey. Always ready to meet new people, try new foods, climb a mountain or tell a good story, MJ became even dearer to me on this journey. I'm a lucky woman to have had such a thoughtful, generous and smart traveling companion.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Beijing Tea Street

"Tea Street" in Beijing

Imagine this - a bustling city street (quite long) filled with shop after shop of TEA!  That's "Tea Street" in Beijing and I could have spent a week just browsing each and every shop in great detail.   


When you enter a shop, you'll receive an initial welcome, complete with mild surprise that a Westerner has found her way there.  Shops vary, some have an English-speaking staff member and others don't.  It didn't matter much, as the gesture to sit and taste tea is universal.

This gracious tea shop owner served us a white tea.  Look at her gorgeous tea table!

I don't think anyone came home empty handed from this excursion.  In fact, most of us could have spent all of our discretionary funds in one place!  Good thing we had limited time.  I came home with some treasures to be unveiled later, along with some tea from this shop (below).  I will confess, the name is what pulled me in!

Fujian PinPinXiang Tea industry Co., Ltd

According to Mr. Wu, our National Guide, this company is well-known across China, with a good reputation. I was after a dark Wuyi oolong-style tea, and getting that communicated was quite a fun experience.  Many thanks to my fellow tea mate who had been studying Chinese.  Between her language skills and lots of trial and error, we found a nice Da Hong Pao and I came home with a bag full. 

Side note:  One of the things I learned on this trip is that Da Hong Pao, "Big Red Robe," technically refers to tea trees that are very old and very protected.  Even the lucky among us won't likely sample that nectar.  What we drink today (hopefully) when we have Da Hong Pao is tea made from tea plants that are derivatives of the original, several generations down the line.  It's more appropriately called "Small Red Robe."  Thanks to Dan for the lesson.  More info.

Da Hong Pao

A few more scenes from Tea Street...





New Layout

Noon update:  Oh, blogger - you are such a tease!  I LOVED the  new dynamic layouts, but I'm back to my old ways (with a wider template) because the COMMENTs didn't work.  What blogger wants to live without comments?  I hope I'm just missing something.

I'm trying Blogger's new "Dynamic" layout.  It does several things for me, the most important:  It allows me to use larger photos without much fuss.  Yay!  It also gives YOU more control.  Play around with the options shown below to see which you like best (Classic, Flipcard, Magazine, etc.)

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

China Tea Tour Orientation

Approximate locations of destinations in China

For today's post, I thought I'd provide a big-picture perspective of this tea tour.  I liken this experience to a master's class in tea, a month-long intensive.  The best part is that at the end I have memories and photos and treasures instead of an exam.  ;-)

This China Tea Tour is organized by Dan Robertson of World Tea Tours.  Mr. Wu, our Chinese National Guide, was also indispensable to our success. 

Approximate locations of destinations in Tibet and India

I participated in all three components of the tour:  Beijing Pre-tour, China Tour (including Tibet*) and Darjeeling, India Post-Tour.   The tour offers both breadth and depth of tea and cultural experience.  We saw (and drank and picked) many differing types of tea, and we learned in detail about several.

Some highlights of the trip include:
  • Beijing cultural sights (Temple of Heaven park, Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, etc.)
  • Eastern Qing tombs and Great Wall
  • Beijing tea house and tea street
  • Pick tea with Ling Di in Huangshan
  • Tram up to and then climb Yellow Mountain
  • Pick/make yellow tea in Huo Shan
  • Xian - Terracotta Warriors
  • Kunming tea market, Pu-Erh lecture and tasting
  • Dali - Bai minority people, temples, Tea Horse Road beginning, ancient tea tree, Pu-Erh factory
  • Celebrating the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival in China
  • Lhasa, Tibet - Potala Palace,  Drepung monastery, Namtso lake, tea with nomad family
  • India - Glenburn Tea Estate in Darjeeling, Lochan tea in Siliguri
  • And much more that I hope to share over the next weeks (months?)

* As it stands today, Tibet is part of the country of China.  I don't pretend to grasp the subtleties in the conflict surrounding, as the Tibetans would say, the Chinese occupation.  For the purpose of this blog, I will refer to Tibet as an independent entity.  My experience is that the culture, terrain and people in Tibet are unique.

Monday, September 26, 2011

The Hand that Picks


Woman's Hand, showing me the tea she's just picked
Huo Shan Village, Yellow Tea

Dear blog friends,
Wow - this re-entry thing is taking longer than I had anticipated.  I'm finally rested and sorting through all kinds of things: laundry, treasures, gifts, memories, happiness to be home, sadness that the trip is over.  And on top of that I'm integrating into my daily life, not-so-eagerly anticipating the return to work, sharing concerns of family and friends, etc. 

I don't know where to start or how to piece this trip out, and I'm not one usually prone to writer's block.  So I will begin with what is most vivid in my mind, and that is the lives of the people who work the tea fields.  The photo above is among my favorites.  Notice the dirt under her fingernail, the pretty silver band she wears, the lines in her hand, the vibrancy of the green leaf.  It's all there - the hard work, the beauty in it, the struggle, the love, the tea that sustains this community.  It was a privilege to be taken to these fields and see, for a brief moment, how these people connect with me.  They pick the teas that I drink.  That I will never, ever forget.


Saturday, September 24, 2011

Home and Jet Lag

Hello!  Well, after a 24-hour delay and about 24 hours of jet lag fuzziness, I'm finally home and among the awake.  I hope to reconvene the stories tomorrow,  tho I'm not quite sure where to begin.  Cheers!

Friday, September 16, 2011

Mt Everest

Here's a photo taken from the plane today as we flew from Tibet to Katmandu, Nepal.  Mt. Everest was on our right, and I thought the plane would tip because everyone wanted a look!  The large peak on the left is Mt. Everest, tho there are lovely Himilayan Mountain chains all around.  This is just one of hundreds of breath-taking views.
Here's a closer look, taken by our tour leader Dan Robertson. 
 
We'll be landing in Delhi, India tonight and make our way to Darjeeling tomorrow.
I have so much to share with you about this trip (like climbing the steps to the Potala Palace and having yak butter tea in a Tibetan nomad's tent yesterday - real people in the remote Tibetan grasslands, anything but a tourist attraction)...but I will share much of that when I get home.  I'm focused on absorbing all that I can and sleeping when we have a few hours.  If the internet is decent in India (no idea what it will be like), I hope to get in at least one more post.  
Namaste, Stephanie

Monday, September 12, 2011

Terracotta Warriors


We visited the infamous Terracotta Warriors recently, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and dubbed the Eighth Wonder of the World.  The scale is awe-inspiring.  A farmer found them while digging for a well in his field one day in 1974.  Wow.  


The statues start out like this - in pieces and shards.  Archeologists and restorers spend countless hours working what may be the world's largest jigsaw puzzle.


I found myself studying the details of their clothing, hair, and facial expressions.  The variety seems limited and the rumor is that they're modeled after real people.

The Terracotta Warriors are funery art in the burial tomb for emperor Qin Shi Huang, the man that (forcefully) unified China and therefore the first emperor of a unified state.  (I have to say it - what an ego!)
The life-sized warriors were orignally painted, as well, but over 2,000 years in "storage" and exposure to the air upon excavation deteriorated the color.
When in China, this is a must-do if you are anywhere near Xi'An.  Note that it is extremely popular and therefore crowded, but worth it.  Also visit the teahouse. 

Tuesday, September 06, 2011

OMG: I picked tea!

Oh my goodness!  That's me, picking tea.  Abundant JOY (and hard work)!

We were looking for "two leaves and a bud".  This tea is used to make green tea.  
 We were in the HuangShane area, in the AnHui province.  Both are very important areas for Chinese tea.

Friday, September 02, 2011

Postcards from China: Qing Tombs, Great Wall, Teahouse


Photo 1:  Qing Tombs

We're two days into this trip, and it's already been filled with wonder, adventure and "lost in translation" moments of cross-cultural oddities.  The photo above is from the Eastern Qing Dynasty tombs.  If you're ever heard of the "Dragon Lady" empress, she's buried here.  (She wasn't much loved by the people.)  So is the emperor who unified much of China (Qian Long), tho he was Manchurian (instead of the majority Han).  Our tour leader took us to these tombs, as they are very seldom visited by Westerners. In fact, we were the only non-Chinese people I saw.  The road to get to them was quite the adventure, too...detours, animated discussions with locals regarding directions, huge piles of rock in the middle of the road, and narrow gaps the bus barely squeezed through!  This one required Dramamine.
Speaking of roads...below is a typical scene.  I had to let go of the fear-for-my-life reaction.  It's amazing how all the buses, cars, motorbikes, bicycles, people, and the occasional animal flow together smoothly.


Photo 2 Street:  Notice in the picture above the driver's green bottle of tea.  That is with him always, and he refills it throughout the day from a thermos of hot water.






Photo 3: Dragon's Head


Here's another destination that few Westerners see - it's where the Great Wall meets the sea. It's called the Dragon's Head.



Photo 4:  Confucius Teahouse

Last evening after dinner, we strolled down a back alley to this lovely Confucius Teahouse.  We were served tea Gong Fu style, with a beautiful and knowledgeable hostess guiding us through the process to see, smell, and taste the tea. 
The tour has just begun...I hope to send more in a few days.  Thank you for joining me!