Back to Glenburn Tea Estate

Woman plucking tea in Darjeeling

Thank you AM for snapping this photo!

A workmate pointed out that I used the word heaven three times in one sentence, as I was describing my trip to Darjeeling, India and particularly Glenburn Tea Estate. Beautiful tea fields, majestic mountains, ethereal mists, scrumptious meals, plenty of exercise and time for day dreaming, good friends (old and new), and of course -- Darjeeling tea! 

On the way to Glenburn, we stopped for a picnic next to a tea field.
The fogged-in field was other-worldly! 

The path to Glenburn is, quite literally, over the river and through the woods and up a mountain and through the tea fields. It's a winding, and towards the end, very bumpy journey. Along the way, you'll stop for a picnic in a beautiful scenic area. (If you're prone to motion sickness, as I am, take meds AND sit in the front seat!) The 3-4 hour journey is worth every minute. When you arrive, you'll be treated to a welcoming glass of lemonade and the kindness of the hosts and staff. 

Our first day there, we decided to relax and do a little exploring.  I requested a cup of tea and what arrived was Afternoon Tea with fried tea leaves, cake and cookies!

One of the best things about Glenburn is bed tea! 

Your wake-up call is a tray of tea, cookies and splendid views.

I had been to Glenburn once before and long wanted to return. This trip in early October was one of the most lovely experiences of 2019. Special thanks to my traveling companion AM, and the the staff of Glenburn!  Bertie, Audrey, Rudolph and team - you made us feel so welcome!

Me, taking a walk in the tea fields

Imagine plucking for hours on slopes like this! 

I have so much gratitude to the people who make our cups of Darjeeling tea possible.

The porch, where I spent many happy moments writing in my journal (and drinking tea)

We spent a morning in the factory, learning how the tea is processed and sampling the
Glenburn lineup

Dinner is a leisurely, multi-course event but always finished with chocolate and tea.

Somehow, I still slept soundly!

Bertie and Audrey (along with Rudolph, not shown) -- hosts extraordinaire!

It's heaven for me!

A Meal of Thanksgiving

Thought I'd take a walk down memory lane with a meal of thanksgiving from a little over a year ago...

It was the last day of our China/India Tea Tour and we were visiting with Mr. Rajiv Lochan, of Lochan Tea, in Siliguri, India.  His family had prepared this delicious sendoff feast for us to enjoy in their home.  To have such a special home-cooked meal was deeply touching. 

I'll write more about the Lochan family tea business soon, but for now I want to focus on this meal.  My heart was full of thanks for the past several weeks of touring throughout China, Tibet and India.  I felt so honored to be invited into Mr. Lochan's home and to share this meal with his family.  It was especially touching to meet his children, his wife and his mother. 

The food was exceptional!  Our feast included two types of raita (cucumber/onion and pineapple), lentils, paneer cheese in a delicous sauce, peas and potatoes, beautiful rice, mint chutney and puri, a traditional fried puff bread.  We also enjoyed traditional Indian sweets - oh, my so good!  The orange cups above had a cookie center, covered with finely chopped and candied orange peel.  Wow!  And a milk sweet, which is milk that has been cooked down very slowly and becomes a wonderful texture.  

Rajiv Lochan in his office

As we were leaving, I placed my hands in the prayer-at-heart position and said "namaste" to Mr. Lochan's mother.  She offered the same parting wish to me and patted me on the arm.  It was like a blessing. This moment is with me still!

Today I am incredibly grateful for the opportunity to have taken this trip, the means to do so, and the  positive influence that tea has in my life.  I am thankful for the friends I made along the journey.

I give thanks to all my friends who share their kindness so generously.  I offer up thanks for my family that wants only the best for me.  And I am especially grateful for my wonderful DH (dear hubby).

Happy Thanksgiving!

A Special Indian Dessert

Gulab Jamun

Marilyn has done a nice job of describing the full menu of our Spice of India tea at the gathering of tea friends in Ohio.  Here, I want to dive into specifics of one particular item, Gulab Jamun. This is an Indian dessert and it's special to me because it's something we had (twice!) in India.  And oh, it's so yummy! 

I was thrilled when I learned that MJ would make this.  She's an intrepid chef...this is not a recipe I would attempt.  Here is a similar recipe.  (MJ did not use raisins.)

We learned that the trick is to have the oil temperature LOW.  Otherwise, the outsides get too brown and the inside remains uncooked.

MJ cooking the dough balls

MJ made the dough balls and did the frying.  My small contribution was to make the rose syrup, a simply syrup scented with rose water.  The gulab jamun sits overnight in this, soaking in the delicate sweetness.  Gulab jamun are a delicious treat, and a way to share a bit of Indian culture through food.

Gulab Jamun in India

First Flush Giveaway Winner

Darjeeling Tea Field

Congratulations to Joshua of Tea Compilation for winning samples of 2012 First Flush Darjeeling tea!

Joshua's haiku:
Complex fruits, bright gold,
Darjeeling first flush teas are
The true taste of Spring.

Thank you to all who played along!  Your haiku poems enriched my week. 
Gratefully,
Stephanie

2012 First Flush Darjeeling and GIVEAWAY!

Happy dance!

Giveaway Alert - continue to the bottom to read details!

Last Friday was a special day! My first flush Darjeeling tea arrived.  I'd only ordered it the week before, and I was impressed with the speed of delivery.  I ordered from Thunderbolt Tea, and I am very pleased with the service.  I was kept informed of the order at all times and have been delighted with the teas!

I ordered the Turzum and the Sungma teas (both classic first flush processing).  I also received a surprise sample of the Arya Pearl (a white Darjeeling).  All three are certified organic.

I practiced amazing restraint, saving the first tasting to enjoy with some of my Wu-Wo tea friends.  We decided to brew using my cupping sets.  (The scenes are of tea traveling via wagon and locomotive, and on the sideways cup, tea auctions.) 

I've had first flush teas before, but never this closely to having been picked.  The look of the leaf (both the Turzum and the Sungma) was much greener than I expected.  I brewed the teas at a couple of different temperatures and lengths, but generally cooler than normal, about 190 degrees Farhenheit, for about a minute and a half.  Water boils at a lower temperature in Darjeeling, and I was attempting to replicate those natural conditions.

The aroma, for me, was very much like freshly-cut alfalfa hay.  Sweet and enticing.  I grew up around hay fields, and so this immediately came to mind.  The DH (also a Midwesterner) had the same thought, even though we hadn't discussed it. 

Both teas are excellent, worthy of time and attention, to be consumed with focus and appreciation.  Our tasting group fell particularly in love with the Turzum tea, though I don't mean to slight the Sungma in any way!  Tasting friends - what are your thoughts?

My tea plant

My own tea plant is flushing right now, see the downy filaments on the baby leaf?

GIVEAWAY!
I'm going to share samples of my first flush teas with one lucky winner!  To enter (and in recognition of National Poetry Month), leave me a haiku poem that has the words "first flush" included somehow.  I'll draw a winner next Thursday, April 26th.  Here's one to get you started. 

Hush.  Tea leaf unfurls.
First flush, the springtime glory;
Listen to the tea.



Weighing in the Tea

 Time to measure the day's work

When I was traveling in Darjeeling last fall, our tour group happened upon a very special scene.  We arrived at a weigh-in station at the right time of day.  This was a very fortunate happenstance! 

Once again, I fall in love with these women who pick our tea  The woman above inspires me!  Her face is lined with hard work and time, and yet is so beautiful.  Her body exudes strength and power.

Waiting for the scales

Today's picking

Getting the weight

Ready for the factory

First Flush

Darjeeling tea field 

I thought I was done blogging about Darjeeling, but it's first flush season!!!  :-)  What does that mean, "first flush" season?  And why do people get so excited about it?

First Flush refers to the first growth spurt of the tea bush after the winter rest period.  Picking begins when the tea bush says it's ready and that date varies each year.  Generally, picking is underway by mid March.  First flush teas are the most expensive of the Darjeeling teas.  When I was in India we had a discussion of why this was so.  It is due, in large part, to the intensive efforts required to grow among the steep hills in Darjeeling.  The input required to grow the tea is large and the output per acres is less than other growing regions.  And yet....that first flush tea is very unique in its flavor profile (floral and astringent), it's like nothing else.  Because of this uniqueness, first flush Darjeeling tea is coveted and collected.

Darjeeling tea pickers, taken as we traveled down the mountain

It's worth noting that not everyone loves the flavor of first flush Darjeeling tea.  Some people prefer second or later flushes.  If you have the opportunity, sample a first flush Darjeeling side-by-side with a second flush.  You'll quickly note the differences. 

I'm planning a first flush 2012 order!  I don't expect it to arrive until about May - but you can bet I'll write about it then!

Pomelo Marmalade

Pomelo Marmalade

Are you a marmalade fan?  Not everyone is, but I am!  I love the chewy rind and the sweet-bitter aftertaste that lingers as you sip your tea.  Yum!  When I was in Darjeeling last fall at the Glenburn Tea Estate, I had pomelo marmalade for the first time (from pomelos grown on the estate!).  Finding these giant fruits at our local market, I decided to rope the DH into helping me give marmalade-making a try.  He's a good sport.  It's a lot of work, but I'm pleased with the result.

Never heard of a pomelo?  According to the Farmer's Almanac, they're the predecessor to grapefruits.  They are giant - the largest in the citrus family.  The flesh is juicy and sweet, the rind and pith quite bitter.

The large and small of it - Pomelo with an extra tiny tangerine

Pomelo Marmalade

The DH and I were inspired by this recipe.  We've added more details to it below.  I chose this recipe because of its simplicity, just the fruit and sugar.  You don't need commercial pectin because the fruit is high in natural pectin.  This recipe yielded 10 jars (8 oz) with some left over for immediate consumption.

Ingredients
2 pomelos
4 cups sugar

1. Put together a game plan.  This is an involved process.  From start to eating marmalade on toast, it took us 4 hours.  We needed 3 pots:
• One big stockpot for boiling the rinds and then cooking the fruit mixture
• One big pot for the hot water bath
• One small pot for the jar lids
2. Peel the fruits. The leathery rind pulls away with a thick layer of puffy white pith.

3. Bring a pot of water to boil. Boil the rinds and pith for five minutes, then drain. In the first boiling, they will float.  This isn't a problem as they will take on water and get heavier.  Do this boiling routine two more times (3 total), starting with a fresh pot of water each time.
4. Extract the fruit.  Leave behind the membranes, any extraneous pith, seeds and stringy segments.  Put in a large bowl and set aside.  Be sure to taste along the way - it's delicious and juicy!

Gigantic seeds (and tiny ones, too). They pop right out.  I began calling this the "dinosaur fruit" because it's a very old citrus and also because it's big enough to feed a dinosaur!


• The DH method of fruit extraction:  With a knife, scrape off remaining pith.  Separate pomelo into two parts and then individual segments.  Pull back the membranes and with fingers, remove the fruit pulp.  Discard seeds along the way.  His segments came out pretty.
• My method:  Separate fruit into segments, leaving on pith.  Use a knife to cut open a segment.  Remove seeds and with fingers remove the fruit pulp.  My segments came out messy, but I had lots of fun. 
5. Process the rind/pith with the fruit pulp.  First, tear the rind/pith into chunks.  The pith will be extremely saturated with water.  Do not be concerned.  Now process in batches, with the fruit pulp.
1. We used a food processor, pulsing the rind/pith and fruit in about three rounds.  Don't over-process, you want this to be chunky.
• The DH says he'll do this all by hand next time.  The rind/pith cuts very easily.  I'd still use the food processor, but keep out a few segments to do in larger pieces by hand.
6. Dump into the large pot and add 4 cups of sugar.  Mix well.
7. Over a medium to medium-low heat, bring to a simmer.  (It didn't take long.)  Simmer for about 45 minutes without a lid, or until it starts to thicken.  Note:  Most of the thickening happens as it cools.
8. While the fruit is cooking, heat the water for the lids and the hot water bath.  

9. Once you determine the fruity mixture has thickened, spoon into jars.  No worries if this resembles pomelo relish at this point.  Trust that it will thicken overnight! Process in the hot water bath for 10 minutes.  For information on hot water baths, see this site.

OK, after writing this mega-post, I need a snack!  Toast and marmalade sound good.

Darjeeling River Picnic and an Earthquake

The Rungeet River

I plan to do more picnicking this year!  An inspiration was this picnic, one that sets the bar high!  The Rungeet River runs through the Glenburn Tea Estate and we traveled from ~3,000 feet to ~800 to picnic near the water's edge.  The water was high and rushing when we visited, but at other times it flows gently enough to wade across.  Should you have the pleasure to visit, bring along your spirit of adventure!  The trip to the river is full of magical vistas and heart-in-mouth 4x4 travel down the mountain (especially in monsoon season).  

The Glenburn Lodge

We gathered in the lodge, appreciating the screened-in open air, yet protected from the occasional drizzle.  We started with shandies and fresh-squeezed lemonade.  The picnic feast included barbequed pork and chicken, quiche, salad nicoise, chicken salad, foccacia bread, tomatoes, potato salad, and grilled banana for dessert. 

The feast

And of course, cups of Darjeeling tea!

Even the china matches the lush green

The return trip was surreal. The region experienced an earthquake; the epicenter was about 50 miles away in Sikkim.  We didn't feel the shaking, as we were in our own quaking 4x4 rides up the mountain.  As we entered a small village, we were met with general chaos as water gushed from a broken pipe.  Sanjay, the plantation manager, was driving the lead jeep (I was in this).  He stopped to assess the situation and learned of the quake.  We continued up the mountain (we were almost to the top), so that he could return and help with the water shutoff.  A few moments later, Sanjay received a phone call.  The 4x4 behind us could not pass the village, a landslide had occurred in the few short moments between our passing and theirs.  Sanjay dashed back to retrieve the others and then sped away again to ensure the villages were safe and to check the damages.  I was relieved to learn that no one was seriously injured on the plantation. 

Safely arrived back to the bungalows, we settled our still-trembling nerves with cups of tea.  At dinner that evening, as the generators provided electricity, the guests shared earthquake stories.  A bonding experience, a humbling reminder of the power of nature.  The quake wasn't giant in California standards (magnitude 6.9), yet it was quite impactful near the epicenter, a remote area with limited access to rescue equipment.  I went to bed that night with immense gratitude for our safety and prayers for the hard-hit areas. 

A Look Inside the Glenburn Tea Factory

Smelling freshly-made tea, just seconds out of the dryer

We've traveled to West Bengal, India, from Siliguri up the mountain into Darjeeling, onto the Glenburn tea estate, through the tea fields, and now into the factory.

Darjeeling tea is prized for its its unique flavor profiles.  First flush teas (picking will begin in March) can command very high prices.  The general process of making Darjeeling tea is this:

• Withering
• Rolling
• Oxidation (often called Fermentation, tho technically that's a different chemical process)
• Drying
• Sorting and Packaging

Withering Trough, Photo by Dan Robertson (World Tea Tours)

The withering trough is a wind tunnel with a nylon mesh lining for the tea.  The purpose of withering is to reduce the moisture content of the leaf and to make the leaf supple.  Yet it's more than that, too.  Withering greatly impacts the flavor of the final product.  Longer withers yield different flavor profiles, and it is up to the skilled factory workers to know what is right for this flush of tea.  One of these experts remains with the withering tea all night, constantly checking the state of the leaf.  The trough begins with about three inches of leaf, and it withers down to about one inch.

"The tea is going to call the shots.  The human must observe and respond."  ~Sanjay, Glenburn Plantation Manager

"Super Twist" rolling machine - love that name!

Rolling used to be done by hand and foot.  Today, most tea is rolled by machine.  The rolling machine works in a circular manner, to twist and style the tea.  During rolling, the leaf's cellular walls are ruptured, thus beginning the oxidation process. 

The next step, oxidation, "determines the cup."  Oxidation is where it all comes together.  I'm over simplifying, but think of it as this season's unique tea + withering + oxidation gets us to the flavor profile in the cup.  When the tea has reached its desired state, it's moved into the dryer.  (See top pic.)  Drying stops the chemical reactions of oxidation.  Then off to the sorting rooms to be graded by size.

 

The sorting room leader

The women in the sorting room cover their faces because it can be dusty work, but it's out of the elements, and is a highly desired job.  Six different grades of tea (based on size and wholeness) will be sorted.

Sanjay and tour leader, Dan, inspecting the final product

Ethereal Tea Fields

Mist in the Darjeeling hills

"Ethereal" is the best word I could find to describe the experience of the tea fields at Glenburn Tea Estate.  The day was damp but pleasant.  The low clouds flirted with the landscapes; there for one moment then gone, to return just as soon. 


Each of the ~60 fields here has its own character. Each field produces a unique cup of tea, based on its elevation, age, the plant varietal, when the tea is harvested, amount of sun and rain, nutrients in the soil, etc.  Even within one field there are micro climates.  All of these factors must be accounted for when making the tea in the factory.

Tea plants grow on steep slopes

Glenburn produces tea from four harvesting seasons:

• First flush: March/April
• Second flush:  May/June
• Monsoon flush: Mid July - Mid October; this is what we were drinking
• Autumnal - November

There is a rest period between each flush, to allow the plant to restore the starch content in the roots.

Tea stumps and roots from bushes that have been removed

Glenburn removes a small percentage of its tea plants each year.  These fields are left fallow for few years, planted with legumes to restore nitrogen.  To balance the monoculture of tea growing, other compatible plants (marigolds, citronella, etc.) and insects (lady bugs, preying mantis) are introduced to the fields.  Tea plants need slightly acidic soil, between 4.5 and 5.5 pH in this area. 

Baby tea plants, grown from the Glenburn nursery

Traditionally, tea plants were germinated from seed in a moist sand/soil mixture.  In fact, the infamous Robert Fortune perfected the use of the Wardian Case, like a terrarium, to smuggle tea plants out of China. Today, however, most tea plants are made from slips, or cuttings, like you might do with a philodendron at home.  The slips ensure an identical genetic match to the parent, whereas tea seeds may be a hybrid - and that could be good or bad!



Next up, a look at the tea factory and then a picnic lunch by the river.

Flowers of the Tea Fields

The flowers of the tea field

About 350 women pick the 60 tea fields (nearly 300 hectares) at Glenburn Tea Estate.  Their children attend school on the plantation, and babes in arms are brought to the tea fields.  A nurse maid keeps watch, or the mothers take turns, while the others pick and sometimes sing.  Five generations of families have worked these fields. 

It's the women who do the picking, a long tradition and belief that the delicate hands of a woman are required to give the tea the most gentle treatment.  The tea pickers we met were a little camera shy, but they smiled a lot.  They were curious about us, too.

Preparing for work in the wet bushes

Darjeeling has five seasons:  spring, summer, autumn, winter and monsoon.  In mid September, we experienced the long-tailed end of the monsoon season.  It rained quite a bit, but the tea picking continued.  The monsoon flush was underway, and during this season the tea bush "grows like crazy" to quote estate manager Sanjay Sharma.  Darjeeling monsoon teas are known for their rich amber color and full-bodied yet smooth taste.  Once the monsoon picking is over, the tea bushes take a brief rest and then autumnal picking commences.

Such beautiful women

Picking tea in the rain, very common in the monsoon season

The tea bushes in Darjeeling are trained into tables, flat surfaces that make for efficient tea picking.  In China, by contrast, the bushes are rounder which maximizes surface area.  It takes more than 1,000 shoots to make a pound of tea.  Pickers are paid by weight, and on average can pick about 8.5 kilograms (~18.7 pounds) per work day.  During the monsoon season, the numbers may be much higher due to the enthusiastic growth of the bushes.  Salaries are government regulated. 

The sky is grey, the rain is heavy but her smile is bright

Though the setting is almost too beautiful to be true in the tea fields of Darjeeling, the picking is real-life hard work.  The tea fields are sloped, requiring balance and leg strength.  The baskets get heavy and the weather conditions can vary from cool and rainy to humid and warm.  Few of us in the US would have the stamina or skill to make it even one day with these women.  Each time I drink a cup, I send out my thanks to these women with the pretty smiles, deft hands and strong muscles.

 

Another flower in the tea field - camellia sinensis